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The Elusive Lady Sefton

“Miss Maria Margaret Craven” by Thomas Beach 1776

          Maria Molyneux, Countess of Sefton, was one of the famed Lady Patronesses of Almack’s Assembly Rooms.   She is mentioned frequently in Regency novels, such as REGENCY BUCK by Georgette Heyer.    Lady Sefton had the reputation of being extremely good-natured; in fact, there is speculation that she was happy to leave to the question of blackballing of potential members, or revoking the vouchers of erring members, to the other patronesses.  (Harriet Cavendish supposedly disagreed with this assessment, but seemed to be in the minority.)  However, outside of her position as Almack’s patroness and Lord Sefton’s wife, very little is known about her personally.

          Born Maria Margaret Craven, she was the daughter of William Craven, 6th Baron Graven and Hampsted Marshall and Lady Elizabeth Berkley on April 26, 1769.  Her mother was the daughter of the 4th Earl of Berkley.    Lady Elizabeth was an author and playwright known for her travelogues, and a socialite with a reputation for multiple affairs.  Baron Craven was also reputed to have had numerous affairs.  Maria’s father separated from her mother in 1780; there after, Lady Elizabeth lived in France.   The Baron passed away Sept. 27, 1791 and Lady Elizabeth remarried Oct. 13, 1791 to the Markgraf von Brandenburg-Ansbach, with whom she had supposedly had a relationship for several years.    There is no indication of Maria having a relationship or even contact with her mother after her parents separated.

           On Jan. 1, 1792, Maria married William Philip Molyneux, Viscount Sefton, the son of Charles William Molyneux, 1st Earl of Sefton, and Isabella Stanhope (daughter of the 2nd Earl of Harrington).   Available information indicates that William’s mother Isabella is the Lady Molyneux who was one of the fourteen original founders of the Almack’s Assembly Rooms about 1765 with Mrs. Fitzroy, Lady Pembroke, Miss Pelham, Miss Lloyd and Mrs. Meynell (all mentioned by Horace Walpole in 1770 when he wrote about “The Female Coterie” – Maria Craven was only about a year old at that time).   It is also probable that Isabella was the Lady Sefton who sponsored Maria Fitzherbert into society (Mrs. Fitzherbert may have had a connection with Charles and Isabella’s family).   William succeeded his father in 1795 becoming the 2nd Earl of Sefton.    

          Known as  “Lord Dashalong”,  Lord Sefton, a friend of the Prince Regent, was passionate about racing, hunting, coursing and steeple chasing,  was a founder of the Four-Horse (also referred to as the Four-in-Hand Club).  He was Master of the Quorn Hunt from 1800-1805.  He was a member of White’s Club. Lord Sefton was known as a liberal and a reformer, and was a Member of Parliament, in the House of Commons (his title was Irish and did not automatically give him a seat in the House of Lords until 1831 when he was created Baron Sefton of Croxteth in the Peerage of the United Kingdom by William IV).   

          With his political career, as well as his club and sporting interests, Lord Sefton was obviously very active in society and was known for a magnificent mode of living and hospitality, which included setting an excellent table.   He and Maria had at least five children, possibly more.  Maria was a patroness of Almack’s by 1812, at which point she was one of the older (if not the oldest) of the group.  With the reputations of her parents and the scandal of their separation and her mother’s remarriage, it seems probable that Maria had high standards of behavior, if only to preserve her own reputation and standing.  Obviously, Maria would have been  very busy managing their homes and acting  hostess in Arlington Street in London, Stokes Farm in Berkshire and Croxteth Hall near Liverpool, in addition to her social life and her responsibilities as a Patroness of Almack’s.  However, I have yet to find any indication of letters or diaries or other information detailing her daily activities, personal feelings or friendships.  Clearly, she was also very discreet.

          Lord Sefton had a falling out with the Prince Regent, when he protested the Prince of Wales effort to cause the exclusion of the Princes of Wales from the White’s Club ball in 1814, which was ultimately cancelled.  Although this greatly reduced his involvement with court activities (and possibly, by extension, Lady Sefton’s presence at court as well, to some degree), his political and sporting activities continued.  There is no indication of any reduction of Lady Sefton’s activities in Society in general, although it appears that the responsibilities of the Lady Patronesses declined around 1824.  He was restored to favor at court by William IV, who was reported to be an admirer of Lady Sefton.

          Lord Sefton died Nov. 20, 1838.  He was succeeded by his son with Maria, Charles William Molyneux.    Maria survived him by almost twenty-three years, dying at the age of 81 Jan. 1, 1851.  As of this writing, I have found no information about her life during the period from the death of Lord Sefton until her own death.    It’s strange and rather sad to think that so little personal information survives about a woman of so much influence in her time.  Hopefully, more information will surface.

REFERENCES

Hibbert, Christopher.  GEORGE IV The Rebel Who Would Be King.  2007: Palgrave MacMillan, New York.

Murray, Venetia.  AN ELEGANT MADNESS High Society in Regency England.  1999: Penguin Group, New York.

ANGLOCENTRIA. Almack’s.  http://anglocentria.com/Almacks.htm

CROXTETH HALL Liverpool online.  http://www.bygonetimes.org.uk/croxteth_hall.htm

Dandysme Blog.  THE EARL OF SEFTON. Posted 2/7/2012 by von Melanie Grundmann.  An obituary taken from THE GENTLEMAN’S MAGAXINE, Dec. 1838, Vol. X.

HISTORICAL AND REGENCY ROMANCE UK blog.  Regency Connections. By Nicola Cornick.Posted 9/7/2009.  http://historicalromanceuk.blogspot.com/2009/12/regency-connections.html

THE HISTORY OF PARLIAMENT ONLINE.  Molyneux, William Philip, 2nd Earl of Sefton [I], of Croxteth Hall, nr. Liverpool, Lancs.  Published in the History of Parliament: The House of Commons 1790-1820, ed. R. Thorne, 1986.  http://www.historyofparliamentonline.org/volume/1790-1820/member/molyneux-william-philip-1772-1838

THE JANE AUSTEN CENTRE website.  The Patronesses of Almack’s: The Arbiters of London Respectibility, by Laura Boyle.  Published 7/17/2011.  http://www.janeausten.co.uk/the-patronesses-of-almacks-the-arbiters-of-london-respectibility/

THE PEERAGE ONLINE. Person Page 2080. http://www.thepeerage.com/p2080.htm  [Information about the Hon. Maria Margaret Craven and William Philip Molyneux, 2nd Earl of Sefton]

THE PEERAGE ONLINE.  Person Page 10875. http://www.thepeerage.com/p10875.htm [William Craven, 6th Baron Crafen of Hampsted Marshall and Lady Elizabeth Berkley]

A WEB OF ENGLISH HISTORY.  Sir William Philip Molyneux, 2nd Earl of Sefton (1772-1838).  Dr. Marjory Bloy.  (no date)  http://www.historyhome.co.uk/people/sefton.htm

Wikipedia.   William Molyneux, 2nd Earl of Sefton.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/William_Molyneux,_2nd_Earl_of_Sefton

Wikipedia.  Almack’s.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Almack’s

  (If you would like to read about another Patroness, please check out an earlier post on the English Historical Fiction Authors blog about Princess Lieven!  http://englishhistoryauthors.blogspot.com/2011/11/dorothea-christorovna-benckendorff.html )

Image:  http://www.wikigallery.org/wiki/painting_373952/Thomas-Beach/Portrait-Of-Miss-Maria-Margaret-Craven

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Happy Anniversary, English Historical Fiction Authors!

     This week, the English Historical Fiction Authors’ blog is celebrating its one year anniversary!   Author Debra Brown, who spearheaded this blog, has written a great article providing some highlights, the top ten posts and other items of interest.   (One of my posts is number 3!)  Be sure to take a look at the various posts-there is truly something for everyone, from food to fashion to politics and war.  There is also a great giveaway of books by associated authors to celebrate this milestone.  Please go HERE http://englishhistoryauthors.blogspot.com/   and check it out!  You’ll be glad you did!

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Jane Austen and Modern America

     As a reader and admirer of Jane Austen’s works, I have been told on occasion that her works, as delightful as they may be, are not really relevant to today’s world, and are escapist or elitist, or basically “chick lit”.  As pleasurable as I have found them, it must be said that the movie adaptations do little to counter this judgement.  I was browsing through my library’s on-line catalogue, and ran across two books whose titles caught my attention:

A JANE AUSTEN EDUCATION How Six Novels Taught Me About Love, Friendship, and the Things That Really Matter by William Deresiewicz, and

A WALK WITH JANE AUSTEN A Journey into Adventure, Love & Faith by Lori Smith

     Both authors wrote memoirs that discuss their personal lives in relation to insights from Jane Austen’s life and novels.  That said, it would be hard to find two more different people and life experiences.  It is intriguing to note just how much each author was inspired by Jane Austen, and how they applied the insights they gained to their personal lives.

     Mr. Deresiewicz studied Austen’s novels, and by extension, her life as part of a graduate program, ultimately including his findings in his dissertations.  Facing emotional and physical problems, Ms. Smith took a walking tour in England, following Jane Austen’s life, seeking answers to questions of faith and personal fulfillment.  Both found more than they bargained for.    Both authors learned life lessons, internalized values and ideas, and acquired a knowledge of themselves that they had not had not previously had.

     These books are, of necessity, very different.  The authors are two completely different human beings, of completely different backgrounds.  They approach Austen from different places in their lives, for completely different reasons.  Mr. Deresiewicz was totally uninterested in reading Jane Austen, and Ms. Smith was an ardent fan.  Both travel with Austen (Mr. Deresiewicz on an intellectual  journey of maturation, and Ms. Smith on a literal journey of faith) and come away with unexpected knowledge of themselves.

     After reading them and thinking about them, I went back and read some reviews of each.  Interestingly, some reviewers commented on both authors’ self-indulgence and whining.  Since these are memoirs of the authors’ experiences and emotions, I think one must expect to share some of their angst and less positive issues; it is unrealistic to expect all sweetness, light, and moments of ecstatic recognition.  There were aspects of both authors that made me want to smack each, for completely different reasons.  However, I found both books to be enjoyable and thought-provoking.  Reading their experiences and viewpoints of one of my favorite authors has helped me to understand and clarify much of what I find appealing and relevant to my own life.  The universal truths that Jane Austen addresses so subtly in her novels, and the way she lived her life, still have much to do with our lives today.  Mr. Deresiewicz and Ms. Smith have demonstrated that in their respective memoirs.  I recommend them both.

Deresiewicz, William.  A JANE AUSTEN EDUCATION How Six Novels Taught Me About Love, Friendship and the Things that Really Matter.  2011: Penguin Press, New York, NY.

Smith, Lori.  A WALK WITH JANE AUSTEN A Journey into Adventure, Love & Faith.  2007: WaterBrook Press, Colorado Springs, CO.

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A Rumination on Time and Maturity

     Yesterday, a little girl of my acquaintance looked up at me with a huge smile and said, “I”m NOT a baby!  I’m not four anymore!  I’m five now!”  On her little face was all the joy and confidence of one who had reach a milestone and felt she had arrived.  All grown up. 

     I sometimes feel like the ultimate late bloomer.  Having recently had one of those significant birthdays (you know the ones-ending in a “0”), I keep waiting for that feeling of arrival.  Somehow, I keep missing it…

     At a time in my life when my mother and even, occasionally, my grandmother look back at me in the mirror, I keep hoping that some share of the confidence and wisdom they seemed to have at my current age will miraculously surge forth.  Unfortunately, it hasn’t happened yet.  In so many ways, I don’t feel a whole lot different now than I ever did.   I don’t feel “all grown up.”  Some of the same insecurities and emotions still sway me; the same conviction that somewhere over the horizon is the success or desired object still buoys me. 

     And yet… I can’t say that no progress has been made.  Forward movement occurs every day.  Feelings get handled.  Things that hurt or upset me in years past no longer matter.  When I do get upset, I get over it (eventually).  Decisions get made and even carried out!  Stones in the road are not insurmountable barriers; sometimes I go past them and other times I enjoy the detour when I go around.  I still fear the unknown; I just don’t let the fear stop me.  

     Time seems to go by faster every day.  I don’t feel like I am keeping pace with it.  Somehow, today, I think that’s for the best!

     How do you feel about it?

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A Taste for Pineapple…

     One of the blessings of living in south Florida is having the ability to grow fruit at home.  Right now, I have fresh pineapple in my refrigerator, another one ripe and ready to cut, and a third that is almost there.  From two that ripened earlier, I have two more plants started in pots that will be ready to plant in a few weeks.  There is nothing more delicious than fresh, sweet pineapple, and it’s even better when you can pick it in your own garden!  Near some of the pineapple plants is a lemon tree, which is covered with lemons ripening, as well as flowers.  The variety of lemon is Eureka, which produces a small yet powerful lemon, and which blooms and fruits with astonishing frequency.

     The taste for pineapple and citrus is by no means a modern taste.    Explorers were bringing specimens of exotic plants from all over the world during the age of exploration.  Portuguese explorers are credited with bringing sweet orange trees back from the orient to the Mediterranean area about 1500, although the Persian orange (which is bitter) was known in Italy as early as 1100.  Orange trees became a popular plant widely sought for terraces and formal gardens in France, Italy, Germany and England, and needed special protection from the northern climates.  Buildings called “orangeries” were constructed in France in the 17th century at Versailles and other sites..  At Kew Gardens in England, an orangery was built in 1761 by Sir William Chambers, which was the largest glass house in England at that time.

 

  A beautiful conservatory was also built for Carlton House by Thomas Hopper in 1807.  As you can see, these were restricted to royalty, the aristocracy and the very rich because of the price of glass, and taxes on glass.  Conservatories and orangeries at that time could be free-standing buildings, or glassed rooms attached to a stately home.  Because of cost, for all but the wealthiest, these structures did not contain nearly as much glass as a greenhouse would contain today.  Roofs were frequently solid (although possibly removable) or inset with only a glass panel, and the walls were more solid, inset with larger windows.  During the Regency era, the garden room was increasingly popular, as a transition from interior to exterior space.  The conservatory reached its hey-day in the Victorian era.

Exterior of Carlton House Conservatory by Thomas Hopper 1807

     The pineapple was introduced after Christopher Columbus first encountered it in 1493, and became hugely fashionable to display and enjoy for dinners by 18th century royalty and aristocracy.  This craze filtered down to the gentry.  However, the pineapple had certain special issues for cultivation: as a tropical fruit, it was not sufficient to protect them from frost; they also required more light than orange trees and most other exotics and a source of heat.  Pineapple cultivation was originally successful in the Netherlands, and English gardeners went to study the methods used there.  

     Heating was a real challenge.  Conservatories and orangeries were built facing south, to maximize exposure.  Angled glass was used to catch morning and afternoon sun, while deflecting the intensity of the mid-day sun.  However, pineapples required more warmth.  Early attempts with furnaces were not successful as fumes were toxic to the plants.  Hot air flues built into the walls were more successful, but the furnaces required constant attention and fires frequently broke out due to the build-up of soot and other material in the flues.  One solution was putting the potted plants into pits which were filled with a source of heat.  One substance used in these pits was manure, which generated heat but too intensely initially and then cooled too rapidly.  Oak bark in water resulted in a fermentation process which released heat at a slow and steady rate and allowed for more success.  Because of the special needs of the pineapple, a pinery could be located in an orangerie or conservatory, with a door allowing it to be closed off, or in a completely separate structure. 

      I  became interested in pineries because one appears in my work in progress (as well as the fact that I have pineapple plants myself!).  Although the term “pinery” is sometimes considered virtually interchangeable with “conservatory” and “orangery”, they are not in fact identical structures, although all are forerunners of the modern greenhouse.   The idea of a special structure in which to grow plants that require protection from cold weather  has existed for centuries.  The Roman emperor Tiberius had a “specularium” designed specifically to grow cucumbers out of season, with windows created from fragments of mica.  In France, records indicate a south-facing glass structure existed as early as 1385.

     Sources:

“The History of Greenhouses.” GardenGuides.com http://www.gardenguides.com/83595-history-greenhouses.html.  Viewed 4/15/2012.

 “Orangeries, Conservatories, Greenhouses and Glass Gardens.”  VictoriaHinshaw.com: http://www.victoriahinshaw.com./default.aspx?page=conservatories  viewed 3/24/2012 (as appeared in The Regency Plume, V. 12, N.3, P. 3 Sept.-Oct. 2002)

 Lausen-Higgins, Johanna.  “A TASTE FOR THE EXOTIC Pineapple cultivation in Britain.”  BuildingConservation.com              http://www.buildingconservation.com/articles/pineapples/pineapples.htm   Viewed 3/31/2012

Perry, Dr. Leonard.  “Orangeries and Greenhouses.”  University of Vermont Extension website.  http://perysperennials.info/articles/orangery.html  Viewed 3/31/2012

 Surchin, Anne.  “The beauty around us: from fad building to pleasure palace.”  (Date 3/22/2007,  Publication: VOX) Found on TheFreeLibrary.com http://www.thefreelibrary.com/_/print/PrintArticle.aspx?id=161397779   Viewed 3/31/2012

I also recommend M. M. Bennetts’ excellent article, The must-have garden accessories for the rich and richer? A glasshouse and pineapples!, posted April 26, 2012 in the English Historical Fiction Authors blog at http://englishhistoryauthors.blogspot.com/2012/04/must-have-garden-accessories-for-rich.html

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A Trip Down Memory Lane to … Leeds Castle

Leeds Castle 2-24-1990 by me

      Today has been a grey, rainy day, so I looked at some photo albums.  One was of my first trip to England back in February of 1990.   I was there for two weeks, and had the most amazing time.  The first week was warmer than I expected, in the 50’s, and I was dazzled by the green grass, blooming crocuses, and wonderful scenery.  We visited Kew Gardens, Hampton Court (which I loved-I looked for the HA in the ceiling, commemorating Henry VIII’s marriage to Anne Boleyn!), the Victoria and Albert, had tea in an incredibly beautiful town called Shere.  However, a highlight of that visit was a trip to Leeds Castle in Kent. 

     Described by Lord Conway as “the loveliest castle in the world,” it is truly stunning.  The day we visited, the weather was starting to change (grey and colder) but the grounds were still lovely-as we walked through the park, we saw peacocks, geese, ducks and black swans; snowdrops, bluebells and crocus were blooming.  As we came around, we saw the castle, surrounded by a moat.  It was, in fact, the quintessential castle of my dreams.  We got there about 3:00pm, and the castle was to close at 5:00, so we had to hurry. 

A view of the castle from across the moat (also by me)

     After the Conquest, William I granted the lands where the Len widened around two small islands to Hamon de Crevecoeur; Hamon’s son Robert built the first stone castle on the site of an existing wooden castle, consisting of a keep and gatehouse (part of this survives).  Because the Crevecoeur family sided with Simon de Montfort, they were dispossessed by Henry III in 1265.  The castle was given to Roger de Leyburn.  The Crown bought it back in 1298.  

     The castle has been given to several queens: Edward I gave it to his 2nd wife, Margaret of France; Richard II gave it to his queen, Anne of Bohemia; Henry IV gave it to his 2nd wife, Joan of Navarre (Henry and Joan stayed there to avoid the plague in London).  Henry V gave it to Catherine of Valois; after Henry’s death, Catherine supposedly fell in love with and married Owen Tudor there.  In 1519, Henry VIII also altered the royal apartments and brought Catherine of Aragon. 

     The castle has its own chapel in the Gloriette Tower.  Edward I had mass said there daily after the death of Queen Eleanor.  This endowment was continued by Edward II, Richard II, Henry VI and Henry VII.    In 1978, the chapel was reconsecrated and made a Chapel Royal. 

     After leaving the castle, we visited the grotto.  This was built underground, using shells, bones, rocks, etc, to make stairs, pictures and so forth.  There is a seat at the very heart where one can watch the waterfall.  When we left the grotto, the temperature had dropped significantly.  We walked by the aviary, but could see nothing of the birds as it was quite chilly and already starting to get dark.    My only regret?  I was sorry we had not gotten there early enough to linger.  Leeds Castle was one of the highlights of my first visit to England.

Sources:

LEEDS CASTLE, MAIDSTONE, KENT. Tourist pamphlet 1989.

Phillips, Charles.  THE ILLUSTRATED ENCYCLOPEDIA OF ROYAL BRITAIN.  Metro Books: New York, 2009, 2011.

Wikipedia. Leeds Castle. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leeds_Castle

InfoBritain.  Leeds Castle. http://www.infobritain.co.uk/Leeds_Castle.htm

LeedsCastle. http://www.leeds-castle.com/land.php

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Old Cookbooks

     Many years ago, I became fascinated with old cookbooks.  At Haslam’s Bookstore in St Petersburg, FL, I found wonderful used cookbooks.  My first treasure was the Better Homes and Gardens New Cookbook, a slightly later version of the classic ring binder that everyone’s mother had, filled with good basic recipes that always (at least ALMOST always!) come out well.  A vast array of the SOUTHERN LIVING cookbooks also tempted me. 

     One of my favorites is THE QUALITY COOK BOOK modern cooking and table service by Dorothy Fitzgerald.  This gem was published in 1932 and has fascinating illustrations.  It also provides instructions on serving, instructions and appropriate uniforms for the maid (!), courses, and, of course, recipes.  (A previous owner was particularly fond of one for Strawberry Parfait.)

     A real treasure was given to me by my mother when I got married.  The Favorite Cook Book A Complete Culinary Encyclopedia,  edited by Mrs. Grace Townsend, was published in 1894 and originally belonged to my great-grandmother.  It was passed to my grandmother, then my mother and now to me.  It is intact, though delicate, and is a delight to go through (albeit with great care).  It includes instructions and recipes for the feeding of invalids, a schedule of when various foods are in season, pages of laundry hints (remember, this was long before Oxy-Clean and dryers!), and other fascinating information, as well as hundreds of recipes for classic dishes.  One of my favorite sections is “Perfumes and Toilet Recipes” and includes a recipe for a Cure for Pimples, how to care for your teeth and ears, and recipes for perfumes and other toiletries.

    I have also acquired facsimile copies of two classics: The Compleat HOUSEWIFE or Accomplished Gentlewoman’s COMPANION by Eliza Smith (16th edition, about 1758) and THE ART OF COOKERY MADE PLAIN AND EASY by Mrs. Glasse (first American edition, 1805).  Both of these books cover a wide range of information, from selecting food to pickling and preserving, and other practical information.  Some of the recipes can be easily adapted today, while others….. well, not so much.  Sometimes I don’t even recognize the ingredients.  Who knew that cubeb was the dried unripened berries from an Asian shrub with a spicy, rather peppery flavor that became popular in Europe in the Middle Ages?      Old cookbooks have much to teach us about how people lived their daily lives,  what they liked to eat, and how they took care of their family’s health.  They open a window to the realities of earlier times.  They are fun to read, and contain a treasure trove of information for historians and novelists, as well as those who like to cook.  Many classics, including Hannah Glasse’s book, are available on-line.  Take a look!  You’ll find something delicious, I’m sure…

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Jane Austen and Online Dating

Knowing I am interested in all things Austen, a dear friend sent me a newspaper clipping of an article from a local newspaper (yes, there are still people out there who read newspapers!).  The article, “Why Jane Austen would approve of online dating,” by Elizabeth Kantor, starts by asking if modern society has allowed these tools into areas that are not appropriate.  I am including the article here (click to enlarge):

Kantor, who wrote THE JANE AUSTEN GUIDE TO HAPPILY EVER AFTER, concludes that Jane Austen would in fact approve.   In her discussion, she points out that assembly balls provided a place where introductions could be performed after the various issues of concern could be weighed.  Kantor shows out that the internet sites do allow a screening process so that introductions are made based on similar values, interests, tastes and so forth.  As I understand it, the online service takes the place of the master of ceremonies, lady patroness or other person in charge of the gathering.  I was rather astonished by the idea of Miss Austen approving until I read the section where she mentioned that California’s attorney general got Match.com, eHarmony and Sparks Networks to start doing background checks (protecting clients against identity theft, and potential assault).  All things considered, I am rather inclined to agree with her conclusion.  If viewed properly, and used prudently, these sites allow people to meet who have been screened for basic criteria, with a view to a possible long-term relationship.  Once introduced, it is up to the parties to take it from there.   Not significantly different from the assembly ball!  If the online dating process is conducted thoughtfully and decorously, I believe that Miss Austen WOULD approve!  What do you think?

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Food In History-What is a “Pupton”?

One of the pleasures of reading history, whether fiction or non-fiction, is learning about the day-to-day living of people in the past.  I am particularly interested in the Georgian era in England, especially the Regency period.  Recently, I was reading a novel, in which a menu for a particular meal was detailed and “a pupton of cherries” caught my attention.  It sounded like some kind of sweet dish, and I wondered what was in it, so I tried to look it up.  Not as easy as I expected!

First of all, I could not find a definition of “pupton.”  Thanks to the miracle of Google books, I found several old cookbooks on-line.  In THE ART OF COOKERY by John Mollard (4th edition published in 1836), I found arecipe for a “Pulpton of Apples” (p. 251) in which quartered apples were stewed until tender, sieved, and mixed with spices, eggs, and breadcrumbs soaked in cream.  This concoction was baked in a buttered mould and served turned out on a dish with sifted sugar over it.   A recipe for a pulpton of apples also appears in the 1802 edition of Mr. Mollard’s cookbook.

Hannah Glasse, whose popular cookbook THE ART OF COOKERY Made Plain and Easy was first published in 1747, and was released in numerous editions until the last in 1843, includes a recipe for a “pupton” of apples as well.  In her version, the fruit was cooked with sugar and only a small amount of water, until the fruit was the consistency of marmalade.  She also combined the cooked fruit pulp with eggs, spices, cream and breadcrumbs, with some butter, baked it and served it on a plate.

Title Page from Hannah Glasse’s Cookbook

Both of these recipes sounded good to me, and I could see how this recipe could be adapted to almost any kind of fruit, including cherries.  However, this was not the end of the pupton! Looking over the tables of contents, I found recipes for savory puptons as well.  These sound remarkably like pate’s and terrines served today, as at least a portion of the fish, meat or poultry component is cut finely with equal portions of suet, then pounded into a paste, called forcemeat.  If used alone, the paste would be seasoned, then it could be rolled into balls and poached in a sauce or fried; it could be put into a bag of some kind (one recipe I found took a chicken, removed all the meat, made the paste, seasoned it, and put it back in the chicken skin) and stewed, or baked.  A fascinating recipe I found in THE LONDON ART OF COOKERY And Housekeepers Complete Assistant by John Farley (4th edition, published in 1787) included a “French Pupton of Pigeons” on page 127.  This recipe took a quantity of forcemeat, made a very thin layer (similar to a pie crust), and then proceeded to layer thin bacon, squabs, asparagus, mushrooms and several other ingredients (a few of which may seem odd in combination today, including cocks’ combs).  This was then topped with another thin layer of forcemeat, like a pie, and baked.  When done, it was to be served in a dish with gravy poured around it. 

Either sweet or savory, the pupton sounds like a wonderful and tasty dish!  I love this kind of detail, as it makes the people of the past come alive.   Food is something we all have in common.

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The Work In Progress Is Progressing…

I have finally fought my way out of one chapter into another! Periodically, I hit a section where it seems to go on forever. However, it is moving forward again. My characters are once again moving in a direction I had not previously considered, but it fits well with my plan. (Editing notes are also growing apace, as there are some rough spots that will need smoothing and some overgrowth that will need trimming!)
All in all, satisfactory!